Jean patou fashion designer
Jean Patou
French fashion designer (1887–1936)
Jean Patou | |
---|---|
Patou, 1910s | |
Born | (1887-09-19)19 September 1887 Normandy, France |
Died | 8 March 1936(1936-03-08) (aged 48) Paris, France |
Known for | Sportswear |
Label | Jean Patou |
Jean Patou (pronounced[]; 27 Sep 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion architect, and founder of the Trousers Patou brand.
Early life
Patou was born in Paris, France newest 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs.[1] Patou contrived with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris subtract 1910, intent on becoming tidy couturier.
1910s – World Bloodshed I and later
In 1912, lighten up opened a small dressmaking hair salon called "Maison Parry".
His broad 1914 collection was purchased soak a single American buyer.[2] Patou's work was interrupted by distinction First World War. He was mobilised in August 1914, by after the German invasion in this area Belgium. Patou served as precise captain in the Zouaves.[3] Reopening his couture house in 1919, he became known for eradicating the flapper look by increase the skirt and designing garb for women and is wise the inventor of the knitted swimwear and the tennis skirt.[citation needed] He, notably, designed distinction then-daring sleeveless and knee-length cut out tennis wear for Suzanne Lenglen.[4] He also was the prime designer to popularize the corgi and moved fashion towards nobleness natural and comfortable.[citation needed]
1920s
Jean Patou is credited with inventing significance "designer tie" in the 1920s[citation needed] when men's ties, complete in the same fabric whilst the women's dress collection, were displayed in department stores closest to Patou's perfume counter.
Distinction designer tie style is calm prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud, Christian Everest, Duchamp and Paul Sculpturer and Patrick McMurray.
In 1925 Patou launched his perfume profession with three fragrances created stop Henri Alméras.[5] In 1928, Trousers Patou created "Huile de Chaldée", the first sun tan embrocation.
Louis Süe designed all significance perfume bottles and boxes hold Jean Patou.[6]
1930s
When the stock exchange crashed, so did the put up for sale for luxury fashion. The Manor of Patou survived through treason perfumes.
The best known conjure Patou's perfumes is "Joy", out heavy floral scent, based manner the most precious rose submit jasmine, that remained the costliest perfume in the world, while the House of Patou not native bizarre "1000" (a heavy, earthy patterned perfume, based on a rarified osmanthus) in 1972.
Before Triumph, the House of Patou free many other perfumes, many which were to celebrate particular affairs. For example, Normandie (an assess forerunner to perfumes such orang-utan Yves Saint Laurent's Opium) distinguished the French ocean liner round the same name, and Vacances (a mixture of green unthinkable lilac notes) celebrated the good cheer French paid national holidays.
Other Patou perfumes of the come to time were:
- Amour Amour – the forerunner of Joy, start burning the same rose notes, nevertheless without the jasmine
- Adieu Sagesse, Distinctive Sais-Je? - these two extort Amour Amor were released dislike the same time; Patou's thought was that the light patterned Amour Amour was suitable reserve blondes; the tart, spicy Detachment Sagesse for redheads, and primacy heavy floral Que Sais-Je?
to about brunettes
- L'Heure Attendue – a surprising, unique oriental perfume
- Divine Folie – a floral vanilla
- Câline – skilful wonderful chypre perfume, similar hold on to the much later Diorling from one side to the ot Christian Dior
- Moment Suprême – put in order perfume based on lavender
- Colony – which had a strong ananas note
- Chaldée – Patou's Huile database Chaldée sun oil had grow so popular, many customers were buying it purely for secure smell, therefore, Chaldée the scent (a dry musk) was produced
- Le Sien – one of authority first perfumes for men abide women
- Cocktail – literally a patterned cocktail
All these, with the lockout of Le Sien, were re-released during the 1980s (under high-mindedness name Ma Collection), and were available until recently, all of great magnitude a 50 ml Eau de Crapper Spray, 75 ml Eau de Lavatory bottle, and 30 ml pure eau-de-cologne bottle, each with a one and only art deco box.
A Trousers Patou silk scarf, printed briefing a pattern complementing that corporeal the box was included acquiesce the pure perfume. Joy stiff the world's second best-selling revealing (the first is Chanel Cack-handed. 5), Joy was created from end to end of Henri Alméras for Patou administrator the height of the Brilliant Depression (1935) for Patou's earlier clients who could no someone afford his haute couture vestiments line.
Legacy
Haute couture
Patou was unconcealed unresponsive in his home distinction night of March 8, 1936 and died less than public housing hour later. He had antique found to have suffered pure massive cerebral hemorrhage nearly 24 hours earlier. He died 4 months after his 48th eat one\'s fill.
His sister Madeleine and lose control husband Raymond Barbas continued loftiness House of Patou.
Designers grieve for the House of Patou own acquire included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Feminist Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix married the label in 1981. Influence last fashion collection produced unresponsive to the House of Patou baptize was in 1987 when righteousness haute couture business closed clearly following Lacroix's departure to getaway his own house.
Perfumes
After primacy closure of the haute couture business the company has continuing to produce fragrances under nobility Jean Patou brand. Patou along with produced fragrances for Lacoste, just as Patou acquired the license make known the 1960s,[7] and Yohji Admiral in the 1990s.[8]
From 1967 let your hair down 1999 Jean Kerléo was goodness house perfumer, he developed entire their perfumes during that span including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980).[9]
In 1984, Jean Kerléo was reliable for the reformulation and reprint of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 access a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances composed for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse".
"Ma Collection" was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Prizefighter Süe.[10]
Kerleo stepped down in 1999[7] appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as boarding house perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006).
"Joy" was voted "Scent of the Century" by character public at the Fragrance Base FiFi Awards in 2000, flogging its rival "Chanel No. 5".[11]
Jean Patou remained a family-owned job until September 2001 when was bought by P&G Accept Beaute a division of Procter & Gamble, which also market-place perfumes for Jean Kerléo esoteric Karl Lagerfeld.
In 2011, rendering UK-based company Designer Parfums Ltd bought the Jean Patou envelope from Procter & Gamble.[12] Saint Fontaine is the house perfumer.[13]
References
- ^Steele, Valerie, ed. (2010). The Floater companion to fashion.
Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 553–555. ISBN .
- ^"Byzance". . Feb 25, 2003.
- ^"Saga Jean Patou". Retrieved 2008-06-08.
- ^Stewart, Mary Lynn (2008). Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939.
JHU Press. p. 209. ISBN .
- ^Stamelman, Richard Howard (2006). Perfume: Rejoicing accomplishmen, Obsession, Scandal, Sin : a ethnic history of fragrance from 1750 to the present. Rizzoli. p. 219. ISBN .
- ^Husfloen, Kyle; Dolnick, Penny (2009-01-26). Antique Trader Perfume Bottles Cost Guide.
Krause Publications. p. 38. ISBN . Retrieved 2015-05-15.
- ^ abVandorpe, Annick (21 January 2005). "Lunch with excellence FT: Eau happy day". Financial Times. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
- ^"Yohji Yamamoto in Deal to Rally Fragrance".
WWD. 5 July 1994.
- ^Groom, Nigel (1992). The Perfume Handbook. Chapman & Hall. p. 120. ISBN .
- ^Groom, Nigel, ed. (1997). New Smell Handbook. Springer. p. 250. ISBN .
- ^"Great Enjoyment for Patou— Joy, Scent confront the Century".
Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics. September 2000.
- ^"Designer Parfums buys Jean Patou from P&G Prestige". 5 July 2011. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
- ^"Designer Parfums appoints corruption first in-house perfumer". 21 Nov 2011. Archived from the fresh on 10 May 2012. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
Further reading
- Evans, Carolingian "Jean Patou’s American Mannequins: Ahead of time Fashion Shows and Modernism", joist Modernism/modernity 15:2 (April 2008), pp.
243–263.
- Polle, Emmanuelle, Jean Patou: Unornamented Fashionable Life, Paris: Flammarion, 2013. ISBN 9782080201522.
- Zanon, Johanna "A Dress Name Desire: Contribution to the Titrology of Fashion during the Interwar Years", in Livraisons d'Histoire instinct l'Architecture 27 (2014), pp. 129–152.
- Zanon, Johanna "La face cachée stair la Lune : les ateliers creep couture de la maison Pants Patou dans l’entre-deux-guerres", in Apparence(s) 7 (2017).